So, December was Archer Appreciation Month in the sewing world (Archer being the wonderful shirt pattern by Grainline Studio), and while I did buy the shirt pattern in the month of December, it seems like I appreciated it a bit longer than everyone else! Oops.
This is my Archer muslin, view A. I cut out a straight 16, and made no changes to the pattern (other than to leave off the pocket, because I’ve never used a pocket on a shirt, ever). I didn’t make any changes because even though I thought it might be too long/too big, I needed to see what I was working with first. I have to say, I am pleasantly surprised at the fit!
The Archer is supposed to be a “boyfriend” shirt, so not too fitted and kind of slouchy. I’m happy with the length of the shirt, I think it hits right about where I want it to. Apart from that, I think I could probably afford to go down one size all over and still have it be comfortable – it’s just a smidge too loose for my liking. I also want to do a narrow shoulder adjustment of about 1″, since I don’t like the look of stuff hanging down past my shoulders. There is, however, one rather large problem I am cleverly concealing in this photo…
The sleeves are a good few inches too long for me. They are, in fact, ridiculous. I expected them to be a little long, because I am shorter than average, but this shirt makes me feel like a hobbit. I will definitely be shortening them considerably in my final make.
Sewing the shirt up was not without its trials and tribulations – this fabric (a cotton gauze I picked up super cheap from somewhere ages ago) had no discernible right and wrong side, and this led to numerous issues with the construction. Having said that, it pressed like a dream and was very easy to sew and manipulate.
I sewed the sleeve plackets on the wrong side of the sleeves, so they sit on top of my hands, rather than behind. Given I’ll only be wearing this shirt with them rolled up, it’s not a huge issue, but one I will be very careful not to repeat in the final version. I also managed to do what I always do and stuff up which side the buttons go on for a woman’s shirt. I don’t know how I always do it, but I do. It doesn’t really matter, except it feels very wrong when I go to button it up. Given how large the shirt is, though, I can just pop it over my head so again, not a big problem in the grand scheme of things.
I went with the bias-cut yoke on the back, and messed up which way the pleat goes – I couldn’t be bothered going back to my laptop again to check, so I just did it the way that made sense to me. Oh well. I know for next time, now!
On the advice from other fellow sewers, I used the collar tutorial from Four Square Walls and it went in like a dream. I can’t really say whether it’s better than Jen’s method, though, because I’ve only used this one. I’m super proud of it, though!
So in conclusion, I love the Archer. Love love love! I can’t wait to make another, proper version – I have a blue and black plaid flannel ready, washed and waiting!